# filter use



## djpase (Jan 6, 2017)

so i brewed my second batch and it was 10 bottles of test e.  i filtered straight off the stove and for the 1st 3 bottles it was easy to push through the filter but the filter popped and got a hole it it. i poured everything back in the flask and re filtered after that. so on my second time filtering my filters would be so hard to push trough after 3 bottles. i would switch filters and it would be easy to push again. then the same thing after another 3 bottles ? am i supposed to use a new filter for every bottle or something?  or am i just using cheap filters? the 45um. and got them from ebay or amazon. am i doing something wrong?


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## greggy (Jan 7, 2017)

There are several factors at work here. What solvents were used. Certain solvents require certain types of filtering media. Also the quality of you AAS powder. Some are definitely better than others. I would assume that you used just bb and ba to make your test. Syringe filtering is tougher than bottle top. Try a Whatman syringe filter next time. They seem to be the best all around brand for me.


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## sodzl (Jan 9, 2017)

The lower the purity of your raw, the quicker your filter will clog.  A caulking gun can save your fingers while filtering.


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## djpase (Feb 1, 2017)

i went to using .25 filter pore size and used nhylon filters and had no problem making tren ace and test prop. . im gonna try watman when i can afford them. the raws seem great bc myu gains in 2 months are crazy


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## djpase (Feb 24, 2017)

i used a once use 500ml sealed filter and bought a pump.  pump saved me hours of using syringe filters. it was .022 mics. worked great. costs  20 bucks per filter but so worth it. it was the filter that you fll the top and pump it to the bottom. what filters do they sell that are re usable where i can change the actual filter and serialize the glass? id buy a good one since my taxes came through


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## Daniel11 (Mar 19, 2017)

The bottle top filters can "burn" when you add hot oil. This is especially true with EO for some reason.  
I always let the media cool for a while then pour through while it's warm.  If you can, let it sit overnight to ensure it's not going to crash, then you have a chance to rescue the mix if it does before you filter it.  At that point heat it up a bit again so it's warm and proceed to filter. 


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## Bigmills (Mar 20, 2017)

Daniel11 said:


> The bottle top filters can "burn" when you add hot oil. This is especially true with EO for some reason.
> I always let the media cool for a while then pour through while it's warm.  If you can, let it sit overnight to ensure it's not going to crash, then you have a chance to rescue the mix if it does before you filter it.  At that point heat it up a bit again so it's warm and proceed to filter.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Would you say that nylon filters work better than pvdf filters when it comes to using ba BB and gso? Also I just purchased a glass microfiber pre-filter that sits on top of my point .22um nylon. Have you ever none that are heard of anyone doing it before and you think it is a good idea as I haven't tried the pre-filter yet?

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## ASHOP (Mar 21, 2017)

djpase said:


> so i brewed my second batch and it was 10 bottles of test e.  i filtered straight off the stove and for the 1st 3 bottles it was easy to push through the filter but the filter popped and got a hole it it. i poured everything back in the flask and re filtered after that. so on my second time filtering my filters would be so hard to push trough after 3 bottles. i would switch filters and it would be easy to push again. then the same thing after another 3 bottles ? am i supposed to use a new filter for every bottle or something?  or am i just using cheap filters? the 45um. and got them from ebay or amazon. am i doing something wrong?



You should be able to get at minimum 100ml through a filter before considering replacing it. Whatman makes a quality filter.


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## ChemBJ (Mar 21, 2017)

djpase said:


> i went to using .25 filter pore size and used nhylon filters and had no problem making tren ace and test prop. . im gonna try watman when i can afford them. the raws seem great bc myu gains in 2 months are crazy



You can try Vacuum filter . It filter well and not expensive


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## djpase (Mar 26, 2017)

thx, yes. i started using vacuum filters. so much better and faster


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## Bigmills (Mar 26, 2017)

djpase said:


> thx, yes. i started using vacuum filters. so much better and faster


What's up brother are you still using nylon filters or did you switch to pvdf? I ordered pvdf and I'm going to give it a shot however it is a Nalgene rabbit flow bottle top filter. I just ordered all my softens and everything last night, And I think I'm going to go with the whatman zap cap bottle top filter with an nylon  filter this time. Any advice is always greatly appreciated by anyone...

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## djpase (Apr 27, 2017)

Autofil 1102-RLS Sterile Full Assembly Vacuum Filtration System, PES Membrane, 500ml Volume, 0.22µm Pore Size, 90mm Filter 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUR15Y2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


here is a link to what i use now. no issues. and filters great. i use a $25 automotive brake line pump from harbor freight. i let everything cool 1st to make sure it dont crash and aso dont melt anything. it holds 500mls. no cramping hands, fast easy. and use a sterile funnel to fill vials. i dont even measure how much i put. just fill to very top. i end up putting en extra 2mls per vial but i dont mind.

honestly the worse and most annoying time consuming part now is just sterilization process of all equipt. i spend hours.


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## khungus03 (Jun 4, 2017)

PVDF filters work great until you get into using solvents, Nylon will hold up much better. If you're using guaiacol use a zap cap CR with a nylon membrane. Before discovering these I made a batch with guaiacol and it melted the plastic of the filter body. I've used PES but don't think they have the versatility and resilience of nylon.


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